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Sunday, June 29, 2014

Italian Rubbed Ribs


Summer arrived bringing with it the annual flood of crickets. For a brief time, every year, they were everywhere. One couldn't walk down the street without running into groups of them hanging out in corners and alleys, streets and sidewalks. Most would disappear quickly, lost to The Lizards or The Chameleons, or whatever traveling band was playing at The Heat Rock. Others stayed with locals, who put them up for the summer. Still others lived off the land, preferring fields and stars to houses and bars.

There was one cricket, one very special cricket that summer that touched my heart. Grylladae was his name. I met him while working at my uncle's bistro on Fifth. I washed dishes. I cleaned. I did the dirty work that no one else wanted to do. Everyone in my family did it when they started out. It gave us a true view, from the bottom up of what it takes to run a bistro. 

The heat of the day stayed well into the night. The bistro had closed but the doors were left open in hopes a breeze would happen by and lighten the heavy air a bit. Covered in sweat, dishwater and random restaurant residue, I watched Maestro work on the next day's special, which we would get to try tonight, before anyone else. It was one of the best perks of working in the bistro. Tonight, Italian Rubbed Beef Ribs...
The aroma from the spices and herbs danced through the air as the cover was removed from the pot holding the ribs. They had cooked slowly and gently, shedding any excess grease into a pool below them. They were crowned with Italian jewels of red peppers, fennel seeds, rosemary, oregano..tiny little salt crystals..

With the cover removed, the air filled with flavor and then....music. A melody, a symphony accompanied the spices in an invisible ballet, music and scents became one. It was heady and beautiful...melodious and delicious....and the meal had not yet begun.
Maestro fired the grill up one last time for the evening. As the flames rose, the ribs hopped into the flame, searing and sizzling and then the voice...
the voice of an angel, an angel of an opera.
an aria ensued

Maestro never missed a beat and removed the ribs with the crispy crusted exterior and placed them before us on our plates..

The aria went on..
The voice was as buttery as the seasoned meat and the highs and lows rose with the flames behind us..
The symphony, the serenade filled our ears..
The ribs filled our bellies.
The meal ended and in unison we rose.
We cheered Maestro.
Bravo!!!
We turned to cheer the source of the music, the voice of the opera...
Bravo!!!!!

In the doorway stood a tiny cricket.
He humbly took a vow.
His name was Grylladae.
Maestro knelt down and welcomed the tiny little one bug opera, recognizing a fellow genius. 

That summer, Grylladae stayed in the bistro. He performed for our patrons and serenaded us. The crowds grew and soon outnumbered what any of us could handle. 
As the season waned and the air cooled, the concerts became fewer and fewer,
the arias were much quieter and eventually, even Grylladae's wings didn't play as true and as soulful as that first night.

I loved that summer. Meals and music were one in the same, an opera of food, a serenade of the senses. It was as if a piece of summer heaven had dipped from above and granted us a peace of itself for that very short time.

I relive the magic of my time at the bistro every time I roast these ribs. I let my slow cooker do all the work during the day and in the heat of the night, I turn my grill on, sear the ribs and taste the aria enveloping my senses..
Grylladae is as alive as on that first night.
I open the windows, letting the summer breeze take away the days heavy air, secretly hoping it takes with it the scents of a summer meal to a stray cricket somewhere...
...an Italian one who, when he rubs his wings together, magic happens..
perhaps a virtuoso..
...perhaps Grylladae will live again.....











Italian Rub
2 tablespoons Oregano
1 1/2 teaspoon Dried Rosemary
1 teaspoon Fennel Seeds
1 1/2 teaspoon Garlic Powder
1/4 teaspoon Red Pepper Flakes (to taste)
1  teaspoon Coarsely Ground Kosher Salt
1/2 teaspoon Freshly Ground Pepper

The Ribs
pounds Beef Spare Ribs
Paprika
1-2 tablespoon Balsamic Vinegar
cup Balsamic Vinegar
1 tablespoon Honey
Combine ingredients for the rub. Add two-three tablespoons of balsamic vinegar to moisten the rub.
 Remove any excess fat. Separate the ribs by slicing the ribs so that each portion is a one bone serving. Rub generously with the Italian Rub. 
 Sprinkle with Paprika.
 Place a wire rack or balls of foil in the bottom of your slow cooker. This will allow any excess grease to remain in the bottom while keeping the ribs juicy but not greasy. Layer the ribs criss-cross style. Slow cook beef 8-9 hours on low.
When ribs are almost done in slow cooker, preheat grill to medium high. Combine balsamic vinegar and honey on stove top. Reduce by half.

Place ribs on the grill and let char for a few minutes on each side. Drizzle with balsamic glaze and serve. 



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